"Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo" (rustyvandura)
08/17/2018 at 15:50 • Filed to: None | 0 | 41 |
255,000 miles on the venerable 2-litre 3S four-cylinder. No smoke, but needs a quart of oil from time to time.
What engine oil would Oppo
use?
benjrblant
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/17/2018 at 16:05 | 3 |
It’s a Toyota, so anything that’s the correct weight as long as you can keep it full.
shop-teacher
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/17/2018 at 16:05 | 2 |
Honestly, whatever is on sale. At that kind of mileage, you’re not going to kill it by using Walmart oil instead of Mobil-1. If you’re buying a cheap car, it’s silly to waste your savings on fancy oil that you don’t really need. It ain’t no sperts cawr!
CarsofFortLangley - Oppo Forever
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/17/2018 at 16:05 | 1 |
Cheapest
Long_Voyager, Now With More Caravanny Goodness
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/17/2018 at 16:09 | 1 |
None, run it til it locks and scrap it.
Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/17/2018 at 16:10 | 0 |
I use Castrol high-mileage conventional oil on all my old Toyotas.
DipodomysDeserti
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/17/2018 at 16:14 | 5 |
No smoke and only a quart from time to time after a quarter million miles? Whatever they’ve been using.
AMGtech - now with more recalls!
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/17/2018 at 16:15 | 3 |
Whatever spare crap we have laying around the shop. ATF if need be.
Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> benjrblant
08/17/2018 at 16:15 | 0 |
So anything with a 30 in the rated viscosity?
Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> shop-teacher
08/17/2018 at 16:16 | 0 |
What weight would you use?
Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo
08/17/2018 at 16:16 | 0 |
What weight?
Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> Long_Voyager, Now With More Caravanny Goodness
08/17/2018 at 16:16 | 0 |
There’s always one...
Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> CarsofFortLangley - Oppo Forever
08/17/2018 at 16:16 | 0 |
Agreed, but what weight?
Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> DipodomysDeserti
08/17/2018 at 16:17 | 0 |
Helluva car, worth all the rage at the time. New, crudely adjusted to today’s dollar, it was a $36,000+ car.
CarsofFortLangley - Oppo Forever
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/17/2018 at 16:18 | 5 |
1 quart should be maybe one or two pounds worth
:)
Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/17/2018 at 16:18 | 0 |
I used 5W-30 on our not-a-Corolla, but 10W-30 on the longbed, because it leaks slightly less with the 10. That worked for about 6 years. Now it leaks like the Exxon Valdez.
Urambo Tauro
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/17/2018 at 16:19 | 0 |
Hm. I believe the best brand i
n this case
would be: Fel-Pro. :)
shop-teacher
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/17/2018 at 16:20 | 2 |
Possibly a bit heavier than what the factory calls for. On the RallyMetro with 267k miles, I use 10W-40 instead of the facto ry spec’d 5W-30.
benjrblant
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/17/2018 at 16:20 | 1 |
The oil filler, owners manual, or other service documents should say something about the correct weight. I’m not confident enough to advise you without doing some research on it.
Long_Voyager, Now With More Caravanny Goodness
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/17/2018 at 16:26 | 0 |
I have a severe hatred for Toyota’s after a 2012 Corolla S left us scar red. 2 engines and 3 transmissions replaced under warranty on that epic POS.
Long_Voyager, Now With More Caravanny Goodness
> DipodomysDeserti
08/17/2018 at 16:32 | 1 |
225k on my Chrysler 3.0. If I’m beating the hell out of it it will use 1/2 qt between oil changes, otherwise it uses almost none.
Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> Long_Voyager, Now With More Caravanny Goodness
08/17/2018 at 16:34 | 1 |
I had a ‘99 Camry and sold it to buy my ‘89 Camry. Toyota’s
Golden Age
ended in about 1991.
MoCamino
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/17/2018 at 17:11 | 1 |
My wife drives a 2001 Toyota Echo with the 1.5L 1NZ-FE. We have had it since it was at 88k miles. There is a sticker in the engine bay ( from the factory) that calls for Castrol GTX 5w-30. When we got it I didn’t know any better and figured I would be best off following their guidelines, so that’s what I put in it.
It will turn over 333,333 miles this weekend. The only major issue we have ever had with the car is that the A/C compressor crapped out. (Common issue with these cars.) It has lost a few HP and a few Ft-lbs (not that it had a lot to spare) but it still runs great for what it is.
These days it does use about a quart between changes due to a leaky rear main, but I have been very happy with the Castrol in that time. Quality Toyota engineering, quality oil, or both? I don’t know. What I do know is when I change the oil it still has decent viscosity and isn’t all clumpy, so at least it isn’t “bad” oil. :)
Manwich - now Keto-Friendly
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/17/2018 at 17:20 | 1 |
It depends on the car. On my current beater Focus, I just buy whatever name brand 0W20 motor oil is on special.
But when I had the Saab, I used either Amsoil Euro Formula 5W40 full synthetic or Mobil 1 Euro 5W40 Full synthetic.
For that beater Camry, I would by whatever oil is on special... just get the type (10W30, 5W30, 5W20, etc) specified in the owners manual.
From that era, it’s most likely 10W30.
And then I would make sure the oil is topped up.
DipodomysDeserti
> Long_Voyager, Now With More Caravanny Goodness
08/17/2018 at 17:38 | 0 |
I hit the jackpot with the turbo four banger in my BMW. 110k miles and burns maybe a quarter quart every 5k (using the BMW which I’m guessing is made from whale blubber ). My wife hammers on this thing. So far my Jeep with an EGH 3.8 isn’t consuming any oil, but it only has 70k miles on it.
I used to daily a Corvair and a ‘66 GMC so I’m happy as long as I’m not dumping in a quart weekly.
Pickup_man
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/17/2018 at 17:51 | 5 |
So e very year when you do your annual oil change in all of your yard equipment, take that used oil and put it in the car. Then take the car oil and put it in the yard equipment. Keep up this rotation and report back when the first thing dies.
Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/17/2018 at 18:00 | 0 |
As others have said I’d either bump up one weight from factory recommended for your climate or throw the appropriate amount of oil stabilizer in there.
Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> Pickup_man
08/17/2018 at 18:00 | 2 |
You’ve left me spee
chless.
Future Heap Owner
> Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo
08/17/2018 at 18:09 | 2 |
A weight up on the cold viscosity, or the running, or both?
So 5W -30 -> 5W-40, 10W-30, or 10W-40?
gmctavish needs more space
> MoCamino
08/17/2018 at 18:12 | 0 |
I like Castrol GTX. It’s my go-to oil for things that burn a little that I care about.
Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo
> Future Heap Owner
08/17/2018 at 18:21 | 1 |
I’d go with just running. Seems like upping you cold weight could lead to accelerated wear. 5W -40 is a weird weight, but you can still get it at Walmart for cheapish.
Shift24
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/17/2018 at 18:56 | 1 |
Car I care about mobil 1 5w-30 or 0w-40.
Car I don’t, anything just above generic cost.
Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo
08/18/2018 at 00:12 | 1 |
I think I’ll stick with 10/30.
pip bip - choose Corrour
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/18/2018 at 08:14 | 0 |
20w-50
boxrocket
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/18/2018 at 12:18 | 1 |
High-M
ileage in the OEM-recommended weight. Also try Seafoaming and/or Restore
Truthteller
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/18/2018 at 13:16 | 1 |
I agree with poster who said keep using whatever you were since it last 250k b ut in general my philosophy is unless the car is trashed in multiple difficult or expensive to repair ways, use premium synthetic oil and filters to make it last another six months longer before you need a rebuild. Premium oil might not matter. Trans might go out before engine. Catalytic converter might burn u p Might crash and get totalled But cost of premium DIY oil change every 4000 mikea is 1 cent ONE PENNY per mile. I consider it very cheap (partial) insurance
Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> Truthteller
08/18/2018 at 15:15 | 0 |
I think that is a reasonable philosophy, though at the same time, oil has gotten better and better since 1989. I’m about to go change the oil and it’s going to be a 30-weight cocktail.
Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> pip bip - choose Corrour
08/18/2018 at 15:16 | 0 |
I thought of that, but it’s not smoking at all that I’m aware of. And it’s had fresh oil diligently every 5,000 miles for the past 100,000 miles.
Gentle Wolfox
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/18/2018 at 19:58 | 1 |
Pennzoil high mileage synthetic 5w-30. A great, inexpensive, commonly available lube @ Wally-world and other OTC car parts dealers across the U.S. If it’s not a direct injection motor, Valvoline Full synthetic/synpower high mileage 5/10w-30. Both are Tonka tough oils that won't sap away gas mileage and offer great engine protection. ^.^
Les
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/19/2018 at 10:43 | 0 |
The best solution is to utilize the viscosity grade the OEM specified, such as 5W-30.
Then choose a chemically synthesized product. Utilize a PAO basetock product...that is over dosed with performance concentrate additives.
This allows the end user to experience the best combination of protection, year round use, wear reduction, lower emissions each and every mile, with life extension for the engine, not to mention financial benefits through the choices that safely allow extended drain intervals.
The buyer needs to do a bit of research as to what a “synthetic” actually means...as it is not a technical term in the USA...but merely a marketing term whose sole intention is to raise profits per quart sold.
Uunfortunately this is the sad state of the market here in the USA. Added to this is the unfortunate reality that ASE Master Technicians have little to no fact based training on engine oils...the key item in vehicle maintenance, that helps the consumer win the war against chemical wear processes that destroy their finances and engines.
Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
> Les
08/19/2018 at 10:54 | 0 |
What is your line of work?
I have a Goodwrench rebuilt 4.3L engine in my GMC Safari that has had Amsoil 5/30 in it since the 5,000 mile mark, now about 100,000 miles. I run Mobil 1 synthetic in my 2012 Nissan Versa. Beyond that, I look to the API classification. Sometimes, I’ll buy Walmart’s Supertech brand, but usually, it’s a name brand like Castrol or Valvoline or even Chevron.
I service my vehicles diligently every 5,000 miles. Rotate the tires, inspect the brakes, have a good look around the engine compartment. On the Safari, lube the front end.
Change the oil, except for the Safari.
Long_Voyager, Now With More Caravanny Goodness
> Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo
08/20/2018 at 06:53 | 1 |
I feel they are majorly riding the coattails of the “reliability” they had back then.
Likewise, I feel they are generally better maintained than other makes, which likely has a lot to do with reliability.